Shiloh and the Civil War 24,000 dead

September/October 2016 continued

Just as the song says, the Old Man River 'keeps rolling along', a muddy rolling fast five knot current took us down river.  We left Kaskaskia Lock and quickly, at 12 knots, made our way to Little Diversion Channel anchorage, per Fern's directions.  Water was high this year, so we had swing room and good depth and shared this pretty anchorage with five other boats.

The Mississippi River and the Ohio River come together at Cairo, IL (pronounced Karo), a sharp left turn and start up the Ohio River, pushing against a 2 - 3 knot current.  The water has a sharp demarcation line, the brown muddy Mississippi and the clearer blue of the Ohio.

I was excited to be on the Ohio River since my  great grandfather, James Kern Francis, came down the Ohio River and Mississippi River to New Orleans.  He wrote in his diary, written in 1895, "In 1858 I took a trip down the Ohio and Mississippi River on a produce boat owned by O.P. Cobb and Co., from Aurora Indiana, going only to Natchez, Miss.  In the fall of 1860 I made another trip -- this time on a boat loaded with baled hay.  The only time the captain of the boat ever reproved or reprimanded me was for hollering: 'Hurrah for Lincoln!' while passing through a landing and country store in Arkansas. In New Orleans they were getting ready to secede, practicing with their artillery just across the river in Algiers, so we got back home."

He tells about his duty in the Civil War and seeing the Shenandoah River and the Nausamond River. As we  floated down the peaceful rivers, we thought about him and the others who fought along this waterway just 150 years earlier.

We anchored at Wolf Island, just north and east of Shiloh Battlefield.

Next day we went through Pickwick Lock and Lake.

We stayed several days at Grand Harbor Marina, a lovely marina and close to college friends, Mike and Sherry Beach.  They came for a visit and we all toured Shiloh and Hagy's Catfish Restaurant. What a treat to get to spend time with them.

At the Shiloh Interpretive Center we watched a documentary on the battle. We walked areas around the battlefield and saw Bloody Pond, where dying soldiers crawled to satisfy an unquenchable thirst. Also, the Hornets Nest, where Ulyssess S. Grant's forces held the line long enough against a fierce Confederacy attack to allow reinforcements to arrive via the Tennessee River.  We walked the cemetery with its row upon row of white markers and thought about those who died here.  We talked about the the vast destruction of American lives and property that happened right around us just 150 years ago.  With more than 600,000 dead in the Civil War and 24,000 in just this two day battle April 6th and 7th, 1862.

After minor repairs were made to the boat by Chief Engineer, King, we set off.  We had not intended to go to Midway Marina, a nine hour day, but the locks were open.  One lock can delay a boat for a long time.  Our longest delay was four hours (which in lock hours isn't really that unusual).  So... with locks open and three other buddy boats, we made it all the way to Midway Marina.

Fulton Lock was scheduled for maintenance the next day from 9:00 a.m. - noon.  So, we were up early and departed, making the lock before 9:00 a.m.  It was another long very hot day, arriving tired and ready for a rest at Columbus Marina at 5:30.

Mississippi River

September 2016

Grafton Marina, in Illinois, located at the confluence of the Illinois, Missouri and Mississippi rivers, is a favorite stop.  We visited local sites, some that we did not see on our first loop.  See the barges below from the top of Grafton Winery.

Suzan and Sharon looking forward to brunch at Pere Marquette Lodge, Grafton, IL.

 After several days of touring, we left Blue Moon in a covered slip and flew to Texas for our 'babysitting' job. Granddaughters, ages 12 and 8, are fun and made our job easy.

View of the River - from the dock at Grafton Marina.

King sitting by the Missouri River in a carved wooden chair.  

Back to the boat, we knew we must start down the Mississippi.  We pass the riverboat, thinking of Mark Twain and the history of this river.  We see St Louis and the arch.  Unfortunately there are no marinas in St. Louis, so no place to stop.

With the swift current on our stern, we arrived at Hoppies Marina in Kimmswick, Missouri by early afternoon.  This is not an ordinary Marina in any sense of the word.  Hoppies, named for its owners Hoppie and Fern Hopkins, is three old barges cabled to stone on the banks of the rolling Mississippi.
Our lines were grabbed as we turned our bow back against the powerful Mississippi current, leaving us facing upstream and port side tied to the bollards.  We met Fern, directing incoming boats, talking on the phone to other boaters needing a slip for the night (reservations are a must as this is a small space and the only stop), while puffing on a cigarette.

Mr. Hoppie is recovering from surgery, but arrived via golf cart bringing us a package that we had sent to the Marina.  It may be legend, but it is a good story that as a small boy Hoppie rode the Mississippi with his father and helped light the kerosene navigational buoys.

Fern know this river and she shares her knowledge each day at 4:00 p,m,, giving a river guide class in a canopied area on her office barge.  The classroom consists of a tattered couch, a mishmash of chairs, a plywood coffee table and ashtrays. During the session, boaters listen and Fern talks - and smokes.  Fern explains the ins and outs of the mighty Mississippi - where to anchor, how to approach the many twists and turns of the river, how the tow captains like to move massive loads (up to five wide and ten long) around the river bends.  She knows the mile numbers by heart for every obstacle and anchorage down river.  Blue Moon is equipped with an AIS receiver, so we know when a barge is coming around a corner toward us. We are able to call them before they are in sight, to agree on which side to pass. Fern and Hoppie are river legends.

Next morning we walked into Kimmswick, MO., population 150, for a wonderful meal at The Blue Owl Cafe.  Oprah, Paula Dean and the Today Show have tasted the famous Levee High Apple Pie with caramel pecan topping and other tasty treats.

The restaurant is the American Dream story in a nutshell.  In 1983, Mary Hostetter, baked and filled Christmas cookie orders.  She received so many orders, her business grew from 5 employees to the current 75.  After a wonderful brunch, we bought a piece of pie to go and a souvenir glass and shoved off.

Our reservation was only for one night - more boaters were coming behind us.  After a good day's run with five knots of current pushing us along, we turned into our stop for the night, Kaskaskia Lock wall.  While there we picked up a few stowaways.

Working on the river.

Beautiful anchorages along the waterway.

What a sunset at Cane Creek Anchorage.

At Cane Creek Anchorage, a restaurant long gone.

We met Hobo at Hoppie's and traveled several days down the Mississippi, Ohio and Cumberland with Hobo.

Green Turtle Bay Marina is a favorite stop for Loopers.

Patti's Restaurant, home of the 2" porkchop, is a great place to go for dinner.  We enjoyed our time with Tim and Suzanne, from Hobo.